90 Years of Handcrafted Heritage – Mezcal Villasuso
Mezcal Villasuso, based in Valle de San Francisco in the state of Guanajuato, has deep ties to the area’s mezcal culture. Regions and states have their own terms for mezcal distilleries, and in Guanajuato, it is fabrica. Mezcal Villasuso is run by husband-and-wife duo Pedro Valdés and Malena Villasuso, the granddaughter of Don Villasuso, who opened the mezcal distillery in 1930, after the Mexican Revolution ended.
Villasuso Smokeless Mezcal
Don Villasuso played a key role in the history of mezcal in Guanajuato. He provided the government with evidence that mezcal production in the area dated back 300 years, which was instrumental in earning Guanajuato the Mezcal Denomination of Origin.
A mezcalero is a highly skilled artisan who oversees the entire mezcal production process, from harvesting the agave to distilling the spirit. Under the direction of mezcalero Pedro, the Don’s legacy continues. Pedro’s background in engineering drives his meticulous, inquisitive approach to production. Mezcal production is a complex process that relies on the skillful hands of many, and he and Malena emphasize community and collaboration at every stage.
A Timeless Craft Continued
Villasuso Mezcal’s recipe dates as far back as the 1700s. It all begins with 100% agave salmiana, a variety of agave known for its smooth, velvety taste. These agaves reach maturity after 10 to 13 years. The farmers who grow the agave for Villasuso Mezcal cut the flowering stems before they begin producing seeds to further concentrate the sugars within the piña, the core of the agave plant left when all the leaves are stripped away.
The harvested agave is roasted for four days in above-ground masonry ovens. Here is where Villasuso Mezcal differs from most other mezcals on the market today. Their ovens roast the agaves with steam instead of firewood. This approach strips the resulting spirit of the harsh, smoky taste often associated with mezcal and allows the agave’s pure, natural flavor to take center stage.
The tahona at the Villasuso fabrica.
While the agaves roast, a small drain at the bottom of the oven collects “miel amarga,” or bitter honey, which is reduced and saved for later. Once roasting is complete, the agaves are left to rest and cool for a day before they are crushed using a traditional tahona, a large, heavy stone wheel used to crush roasted agaves and release the sugars needed for fermentation. It’s a slower, more gentle process than modern-day mechanical mills. For Mezcval Villasuso, the crushing process is completed in one day to avoid premature fermentation.
Only the juices extracted by the tahona are added to the fermentation—no agave fibers are included. Then, the “miel amarga” is also added to the fermentation. Fermentation lasts for around six days, then distillation begins. The distillation process for Mezcal Villasuso takes longer than most other mezcals, as the setup is designed to be done in a single pass through a steam-heated copper alembic still.
Villasuso Mezcal
Villasuso Mezcal is a Joven-style mezcal that gleams a subtle silver that reflects its meticulous distillation. It is layered with aromas of minerals, moist earth, and clay intermingled with sweet cooked agave notes. Hints of white flowers and roses emerge alongside fresh-cut sugarcane, apple, grapefruit, peppermint, and faint caramelized fruit.
The complexity of this mezcal truly shines on the palate. Soft flavors of cooked agave and nutty almond undertones carry through to a lingering finish of citrus and mint, giving this mezcal an intricate character that makes it a versatile choice for sipping neat or crafting cocktails.
Villasuso Mezcal is available from Vintegrity in Missouri.
Click here to read about MezcalReviews.com recent visit to the Villasuso fabrica.
